Exuma to Eleuthra

Exuma to Eleuthra

During the two weeks that we have been underway, we have had 11 weather days (can’t move), 2 motor-sails (motor and sail) and 2 days under sail (i.e. FREE!!). We traveled 148 miles at an average speed of 4.5 knots, 2.3 being our lowest, and 7.2, our max hull speed. 

Our course through the Exumas took us near the private islands of Johhny Depp, Faith Hill and Tim McGraw, David Copperfield, Nicholas Cage and Tyler Perry. I guess my invitation to come ashore got lost in the mail.

While sailing with the caravan of other yachts that were waiting weather in Black Point, we were approached by the Bahamian Defense Force. They cruised next to us for a few minutes, waved and continued on. They caught up to a boat that was flying no flags. It is customary once you drop the yellow quarantine flag that you fly both a Bahamian courtesy flag and the flag of your own country. By the way, thanks Deb for sending us that flag 3 years ago!

We had a 10 hour motor-sail  to Eleuthra, an island 30 miles northeast of Exuma. I liken our crossing to riding a spirited stallion occasionally leaping obstacles; someone must remain at the reins and sometimes you just gotta hang on!! During our journey, the transmission developed a leak…yikes!!! After adding 4 quarts during the crossing, Danny was able to put a band-aid on the problem when we got anchored in Rock Sound.

It has been hard to slow down, but slow down we must! We will have to sail as much as possible and nurse this transmission back to the states. We have been able to sail for the last two days and it is absolutely breathtaking. We only travel about 20-25 miles a day. We have had numerous dolphin sightings.

The sunsets have been spectacular or maybe we just slowed down enough to enjoy them.

The cruising guide pointed us to a nice little anchorage just north of Governor’s Harbor. Sometime during the night, as always, the wind switched, and our idyllic anchorage turned into a bubbling cauldron that tossed OPA around like a pair of sneakers in a dryer. Needless to say, sleep was elusive. Danny would have pulled up anchor at 2:00 in the morning, but I was unwilling to cooperate.

Our next stop was in Spanish Wells, at the northern tip of Eleuthra. Upon approach to the harbor, this quaint community reminds me of a cross between Tarpon Springs, FL and the Florida Keys. There is a thriving seafood industry here and the community is filled with pristine house with phenomenal gardens. The people living here are descendants of the Eleuthra Adventurists who came here in 1648 seeking freedom to work and worship their God. There are three churches and they are all Methodist. The people here are very wealthy, made obvious by the number of motor vehicles on this tiny, tiny, island (one per household, still trying to figure out where they drive on an island only 2 miles wide)?

                             

Longing for a good nights sleep, we picked up a mooring (a permanent anchor) just off the main dock. After being on the boat for 6 days, we were looking forward to a night on the town. After walking the entire length of the 2 mile rock (only 1/2 mile wide), I found it quite amusing that we managed to find the only dry island in all of the Bahamas…not even a beer to be found!  The culmination of our excitement was watching to see if the streetlights actually did go off at 9:00. We were fortunate enough to attend a church fair the next day and I loaded up with homemade baked goods. YUMMY!

We are still in Spanish Wells and hoping for a break in the weather tomorrow. We are heading to Little Harbor, Abaco and around to the west end of Grand Bahama, where we will undoubtedly have to wait for another weather window to cross the gulf stream into the United States. We have been advised by other cruisers to make our landing in Lake Worth, and then proceeding to the Jacksonville/St. Augustine area. I will update as our situation permits as I’d forgotten that some of these settlements don’t have internet capabilities. We are in Hopetown, Abaco, so stay tuned for our adventures from Eleuthra, not quite so rosy. The good stuff definitely makes up for the apprehension that I sometimes feel when exploring new territories.