Eleuthra to Abaco

Eleuthra to Abaco

Plantation Ruins at Royal Island, Eleuthra

I was really excited about coming to Abaco. Danny has been here before and wanted to share it with me. We had a fifty mile crossing over the open Atlantic. We estimated we could easily do it in 8 hours. We got up early and departed with about 10 other boats, mostly trawlers. The current was so unbelievably strong that even with the motor running we were unable to cruise more than 4 knots. Also we were heading due north and that is precisely where the winds were coming from. I felt like we were in a perpetual GPS zone. The estimated time of arrival reading was 7 ½ hours for an eternity. Then the engine started overheating and we had to back it down, which caused me even more stress. I abhor navigating at night in unknown territory, but there was simply no turning back. We were forced to speed up the engine and I prayed feverishly that we would make it into the cut before sunset. This cut was extremely shallow with reefs on either side of the entrance. Fortunately, my prayers were answered and we came through at 7:30. We went 50 miles in 12 very long hours.

We decided that we would have to take a slip at a marina to see if Danny could fix the overheating problem. I was really looking forward to a hot shower and a poolside bar. We had only about 8 miles to travel, but my long awaited marina stop would have to wait another day. When we were only 4 miles from Hopetown, I ran the boat hard aground (actually Danny was steering, but it was at my insistence). Did I mention we did this at HIGH tide. We tried pushing her off, but our little 8hp dinghy motor was hard pressed to move 30,000 pounds. Our calls for help went unanswered, although I did get emotional support from a boat called Whisper who had experienced the same thing in almost the same place. Thanks Dan and Jennifer for the much needed comic relief. We had no choice but to wait for the next high tide at midnight. We arranged for a local boat to come around 11:00 to pull us off. While we waited, OPA eventually ended up on her side. Tears flowed from my eyes as I watched all of our precious water dumping overboard. The last time we were aground was in Bimini about 16 years ago, but that was a fluke storm that put us up on a mound, again at high tide, so that when the tide dropped, our deck seams went under water and sea water came pouring into OPA. You can imagine my apprehension as the boat gently laid on her side. Truman Major, a very nice gentleman on a boat called Lucky Strike called me at 8:00 pm and said there was a good chance that we may be able to get off ourselves. He explained that the night tide was sometimes about 4 inches higher and we had also lightened our load by 800 pounds when all the water departed our tanks. I explained that I had a hard time navigating this area during the day and was certainly not looking forward to doing it at midnight; but, for the four hundred dollars that it would cost for him to come out, I was willing to put my fears aside. The old girl started to float at midnight and we were able to get her relocated without running into anything else...what a relief!!

We are now in Hopetown. 

First sight when approaching the harbor.

Signs on the wall at Captain Jack's, Hopetown Abaco

Excellent food, great people!

I call this...dinner!

We took the dinghy across to town and had a very enjoyable afternoon. Hopetown is a lovely community with very few motorized vehicles. What a switch from Spanish Wells. The houses are beautiful and the gardens magnificent.

Of course, we had to get a photo of ex-firefighter Dan.

The highlight of our stay here would have to be the Hopetown Lighthouse. When Danny was here 30 years ago, it was operated by a gentleman named Sam McFee. Sadly, Sam has passed on, but, fortunately, the next generation has taken over and it is still operated by Sam McFee. It is one of the three lighthouses still operational in all of the Bahamas. We met Sam when we checked into the Hopetown Inn and Marina (beautiful place). He was such a sweet young man and he invited us to join him when he fired up the light. Sam does get a small stipend for tending, and they do provide a place for him to live. You can feel his passion as he explains the process of keeping it illuminated, as he has done since he was merely 6 years old. It requires 2 gallons of kerosene and winding every two hours and in the morning he must put up the curtains or a fire would ignite.  The view was phenomenal and it was such a thrill to watch the process and hear the pride in Sam's voice. We really appreciate all that he does to keep all mariners safe from harm. My photos may be a bit fuzzy...I was recovering from my grounding.

The long journey up...well worth it!

The view from the lighthouse...where's OPA!!

Beautiful Hopetown Harbor

Sam takes his responsibility very seriously. Thanks!

Job well done...again and again.

The weather here has really gotten a lot worse, so we will be staying in Hopetown for at least another two days. That's really not a bad thing,  as I could definitely have another cup of that creamy conch chowder at Captain Jack's. Next stop...Marsh Harbor and a Kentucky Fried Chicken!! It's the little things in life. 

Please keep us in your prayers. 

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