Abaco, Grand Bahama, and the USA

Hopetown, Marsh Harbor, & Great Sale Cay
West End and the USA!

We had such a wonderful time in Hopetown. The bad weather forced us to stay, but it also gave us the opportunity to explore a little more and we were not disappointed. This is the quaintest island we have stumbled upon so far. The bank only opens one day a week and only for two hours. There was an eclectic mix of locals, tourists (staying at a cottage) and boaters, all coming great distances. The locals are delightful and food was fabulous. We found that both food and drink were very reasonably priced at all the restaurants. It was a bit discouraging to find the local water supply so taxed by visitors. This is the second island that I have tried to do laundry on and had to wait until the water was made. We were anxious to move on after 3 days, not because we wanted to, but I want more to be in southern Maryland for our nephew’s graduation.

Red sky at night...sailor's delight!

We moved on to Marsh Harbor in really yucky weather. We decided to move on in spite of the overcast skies. We still had some shallow banks to conquer, but before Danny skillfully maneuvered from the tight slip in 25 knot winds, I heard from a few other yachties who had run aground in the same location as I did. I once again put my fears aside and considered our grounding a rite of passage. We were not the only ones affected by the weather; they actually closed every government school in all of the Bahamas. Bonus day for my friend in Georgetown, hope you enjoyed it, Janie!

Enjoying his weather day off from school.

Our trip to Marsh Harbor was uneventful…hallelujah! We spent 2 days in Marsh Harbor and my favorite things were the Island Bakery, the KFC, and, believe it or not, a Save A Lot, just like in the states. The bread from the bakery melted in our mouths (2 loaves in 2 days actually), we got our dose of that finger lickin' good chicken, and I actually got bananas for less 89 cents a pound. The children were delightful here and actually offered a hand at the dinghy dock. I was disappointed in how much litter we saw. It is the big city, after all, as evidenced by the very first traffic light I have seen in all of the family islands. 

We have had four uneventful days at sea. The first was only 8 miles, but still worthy of a celebration. The second day was a little more stressful as it was rife with VPR (visual piloting required) notations. That means shifting sand bars and very, very shallow water. To pilot these areas, you need good weather, sunlight, bottom reading and piloting. I really dread these areas, especially after our grounding, but every day I become more comfortable with my skills and a little less tense. That’s a very good thing for both of us in our tiny little habitat. Now that Danny has resolved just about every issue that we have encountered, we are both hoping for a lot less stress for the rest of our journey. We choose not to ride with the packs and last night we were rewarded with my definition of the perfect anchorage. We had to travel 300 miles before we found an anchorage that had no one else in it! The lagniappe was the peaceful serenity and no swell. What a delightful place.

Imagine our excitement when we anchored the next night. We were the only boat in the harbor. Sadly, as I write this, another 12 boats have joined us and it is only 4:30 pm!! Oh well, it’s off to West End, Grand Bahama, in the morning.

I was thanking God that I did not study my charts prior to our departure. As it was, I had six wonderful hours of bliss until I discovered that the last 5 miles of our trip were extremely shallow. Let me put this in perspective; five miles is a very long time when in water that is 5 feet at low tide and you need 4 ½ feet to float.  We figured as long as the tide was coming up, we were okay. It was the longest hour of my life. We slowed down to let the three motor vessels that were following pass us, but guess what, they slowed down also and allowed us to guide them in (cowards!). We had five miles of white-knuckling before we reached our destination.   (Thanks,  Schultise family for the awesome depth sounder). Then we had to find the anchorage, find a “sandy spot” and hope like hell the current wouldn’t get us.  At this point, we were stretched to our limits. I thought the whole settlement of west end must have heard our terms of endearment. We made it in safely, put the outboard on the dinghy and headed to shore. 

This was my first time to west end and I didn’t know what to expect. We found the Old Bahama Bay Marina just off our anchorage to be a delightful place. What a surprise to find a friend from Exuma visiting his home here in West End. He picked us up and showed us his island. Danny got a lesson in cleaning a conch when Dwight acquired a few from a local fisherman. He proceeded to make us the best conch salad around. Thanks Dwight, you gave us a very special tour and it was much appreciated.

I am very sad to be departing the Bahamas. We have a lot of very special friends here. It is in knowing that I will return, that I am able to leave.  I am also looking forward to our family gatherings, one in Jacksonville, and one in southern Maryland. We are blessed with two wonderful families!

Red sky in the morning, sailors take warning!

We had a wonderful trip crossing the Gulf Stream. I have never experienced such calm water during a crossing. It was absolutely beautiful. We sailed in to Lake Worth Inlet and dropped the anchor. We are waiting to clear customs. We have to appear personally tomorrow morning, so our journey has been delayed another day.

I can't believe this is the Atlantic Ocean. Great crossing!

Our first sunset in the U.S.A.!!!

Our new neighbor departing  Lake Worth Inlet!

There’s a full moon tonight…bonus!