Eleuthra to Abaco

Eleuthra to Abaco

Plantation Ruins at Royal Island, Eleuthra

I was really excited about coming to Abaco. Danny has been here before and wanted to share it with me. We had a fifty mile crossing over the open Atlantic. We estimated we could easily do it in 8 hours. We got up early and departed with about 10 other boats, mostly trawlers. The current was so unbelievably strong that even with the motor running we were unable to cruise more than 4 knots. Also we were heading due north and that is precisely where the winds were coming from. I felt like we were in a perpetual GPS zone. The estimated time of arrival reading was 7 ½ hours for an eternity. Then the engine started overheating and we had to back it down, which caused me even more stress. I abhor navigating at night in unknown territory, but there was simply no turning back. We were forced to speed up the engine and I prayed feverishly that we would make it into the cut before sunset. This cut was extremely shallow with reefs on either side of the entrance. Fortunately, my prayers were answered and we came through at 7:30. We went 50 miles in 12 very long hours.

We decided that we would have to take a slip at a marina to see if Danny could fix the overheating problem. I was really looking forward to a hot shower and a poolside bar. We had only about 8 miles to travel, but my long awaited marina stop would have to wait another day. When we were only 4 miles from Hopetown, I ran the boat hard aground (actually Danny was steering, but it was at my insistence). Did I mention we did this at HIGH tide. We tried pushing her off, but our little 8hp dinghy motor was hard pressed to move 30,000 pounds. Our calls for help went unanswered, although I did get emotional support from a boat called Whisper who had experienced the same thing in almost the same place. Thanks Dan and Jennifer for the much needed comic relief. We had no choice but to wait for the next high tide at midnight. We arranged for a local boat to come around 11:00 to pull us off. While we waited, OPA eventually ended up on her side. Tears flowed from my eyes as I watched all of our precious water dumping overboard. The last time we were aground was in Bimini about 16 years ago, but that was a fluke storm that put us up on a mound, again at high tide, so that when the tide dropped, our deck seams went under water and sea water came pouring into OPA. You can imagine my apprehension as the boat gently laid on her side. Truman Major, a very nice gentleman on a boat called Lucky Strike called me at 8:00 pm and said there was a good chance that we may be able to get off ourselves. He explained that the night tide was sometimes about 4 inches higher and we had also lightened our load by 800 pounds when all the water departed our tanks. I explained that I had a hard time navigating this area during the day and was certainly not looking forward to doing it at midnight; but, for the four hundred dollars that it would cost for him to come out, I was willing to put my fears aside. The old girl started to float at midnight and we were able to get her relocated without running into anything else...what a relief!!

We are now in Hopetown. 

First sight when approaching the harbor.

Signs on the wall at Captain Jack's, Hopetown Abaco

Excellent food, great people!

I call this...dinner!

We took the dinghy across to town and had a very enjoyable afternoon. Hopetown is a lovely community with very few motorized vehicles. What a switch from Spanish Wells. The houses are beautiful and the gardens magnificent.

Of course, we had to get a photo of ex-firefighter Dan.

The highlight of our stay here would have to be the Hopetown Lighthouse. When Danny was here 30 years ago, it was operated by a gentleman named Sam McFee. Sadly, Sam has passed on, but, fortunately, the next generation has taken over and it is still operated by Sam McFee. It is one of the three lighthouses still operational in all of the Bahamas. We met Sam when we checked into the Hopetown Inn and Marina (beautiful place). He was such a sweet young man and he invited us to join him when he fired up the light. Sam does get a small stipend for tending, and they do provide a place for him to live. You can feel his passion as he explains the process of keeping it illuminated, as he has done since he was merely 6 years old. It requires 2 gallons of kerosene and winding every two hours and in the morning he must put up the curtains or a fire would ignite.  The view was phenomenal and it was such a thrill to watch the process and hear the pride in Sam's voice. We really appreciate all that he does to keep all mariners safe from harm. My photos may be a bit fuzzy...I was recovering from my grounding.

The long journey up...well worth it!

The view from the lighthouse...where's OPA!!

Beautiful Hopetown Harbor

Sam takes his responsibility very seriously. Thanks!

Job well done...again and again.

The weather here has really gotten a lot worse, so we will be staying in Hopetown for at least another two days. That's really not a bad thing,  as I could definitely have another cup of that creamy conch chowder at Captain Jack's. Next stop...Marsh Harbor and a Kentucky Fried Chicken!! It's the little things in life. 

Please keep us in your prayers. 

.

Exuma to Eleuthra

Exuma to Eleuthra

During the two weeks that we have been underway, we have had 11 weather days (can’t move), 2 motor-sails (motor and sail) and 2 days under sail (i.e. FREE!!). We traveled 148 miles at an average speed of 4.5 knots, 2.3 being our lowest, and 7.2, our max hull speed. 

Our course through the Exumas took us near the private islands of Johhny Depp, Faith Hill and Tim McGraw, David Copperfield, Nicholas Cage and Tyler Perry. I guess my invitation to come ashore got lost in the mail.

While sailing with the caravan of other yachts that were waiting weather in Black Point, we were approached by the Bahamian Defense Force. They cruised next to us for a few minutes, waved and continued on. They caught up to a boat that was flying no flags. It is customary once you drop the yellow quarantine flag that you fly both a Bahamian courtesy flag and the flag of your own country. By the way, thanks Deb for sending us that flag 3 years ago!

We had a 10 hour motor-sail  to Eleuthra, an island 30 miles northeast of Exuma. I liken our crossing to riding a spirited stallion occasionally leaping obstacles; someone must remain at the reins and sometimes you just gotta hang on!! During our journey, the transmission developed a leak…yikes!!! After adding 4 quarts during the crossing, Danny was able to put a band-aid on the problem when we got anchored in Rock Sound.

It has been hard to slow down, but slow down we must! We will have to sail as much as possible and nurse this transmission back to the states. We have been able to sail for the last two days and it is absolutely breathtaking. We only travel about 20-25 miles a day. We have had numerous dolphin sightings.

The sunsets have been spectacular or maybe we just slowed down enough to enjoy them.

The cruising guide pointed us to a nice little anchorage just north of Governor’s Harbor. Sometime during the night, as always, the wind switched, and our idyllic anchorage turned into a bubbling cauldron that tossed OPA around like a pair of sneakers in a dryer. Needless to say, sleep was elusive. Danny would have pulled up anchor at 2:00 in the morning, but I was unwilling to cooperate.

Our next stop was in Spanish Wells, at the northern tip of Eleuthra. Upon approach to the harbor, this quaint community reminds me of a cross between Tarpon Springs, FL and the Florida Keys. There is a thriving seafood industry here and the community is filled with pristine house with phenomenal gardens. The people living here are descendants of the Eleuthra Adventurists who came here in 1648 seeking freedom to work and worship their God. There are three churches and they are all Methodist. The people here are very wealthy, made obvious by the number of motor vehicles on this tiny, tiny, island (one per household, still trying to figure out where they drive on an island only 2 miles wide)?

                             

Longing for a good nights sleep, we picked up a mooring (a permanent anchor) just off the main dock. After being on the boat for 6 days, we were looking forward to a night on the town. After walking the entire length of the 2 mile rock (only 1/2 mile wide), I found it quite amusing that we managed to find the only dry island in all of the Bahamas…not even a beer to be found!  The culmination of our excitement was watching to see if the streetlights actually did go off at 9:00. We were fortunate enough to attend a church fair the next day and I loaded up with homemade baked goods. YUMMY!

We are still in Spanish Wells and hoping for a break in the weather tomorrow. We are heading to Little Harbor, Abaco and around to the west end of Grand Bahama, where we will undoubtedly have to wait for another weather window to cross the gulf stream into the United States. We have been advised by other cruisers to make our landing in Lake Worth, and then proceeding to the Jacksonville/St. Augustine area. I will update as our situation permits as I’d forgotten that some of these settlements don’t have internet capabilities. We are in Hopetown, Abaco, so stay tuned for our adventures from Eleuthra, not quite so rosy. The good stuff definitely makes up for the apprehension that I sometimes feel when exploring new territories. 

Blackpoint, Exuma

Blackpoint , Exuma, Bahamas

Blackpoint is a small settlement boasting a population of approximately 350 very friendly people. One of our favorite spots on this island is the Scorpio Inn because they have great deals for happy hour and FREE tasty appetizers.It is also a great place to meet some of the other boaters, catch a Rays game, or access the internet.

We enjoyed some very tender conch and an awesome snapper filet sandwich at Lorraine’s Café while we caught up with our buddies on Silver Girl, who we met while cruising here three years ago. Robert and Diane supplied us with a plethora of  helpful information from here all the way to the Chesapeake. What a great reunion we had. One of the best parts of the cruising lifestyle is meeting old friends along the way.

Where's the street?

We took a wonderful stroll through the community and because it is Easter break, there are children here from many of the surrounding settlements. Their antics were visible all around the community, but they were all very well-behaved and polite as they are used to strangers arriving daily to invade this small picturesque town.

Making straw baskets

After being anchored here for two very calm days, we awaited for the approaching front. Many more boats poured into the harbor for a respite from the storms that were heading our way. We had loads of much needed rain which helped us replenish our water supply. It’s amazing how quickly two people can use 100 gallons of water.  

Where's OPA? That is Danny on the dock.

Georgetown, we just changed our view.

Where’s OPA?

We moved from the house in Hooper’s Bay on Good Friday and made it to Monument Beach, inside the harbor. We had several things break while waiting for weather and just like always, Danny handled them all. Since we had to readjust to the cruising lifestyle, this was really a welcome break. 

Where’s OPA?

This was taken from the monument overlooking our anchorage in Elizabeth Harbor.

This was taken from the monument overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

The Bahamas is a very religious country and so on Good Friday, everything was shut down. All bars had to remain closed until 6:00p.m. Then everything was closed again for Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. I discovered that our new alternator cannot support our toaster oven…one of the reasons we are still in port. I am so glad that everything happened here in the harbor. We even put up all the sails and made sure all the rigging was properly tuned. It also gave us the opportunity to stow all the stuff that we just threw on board when we left the house. Our first night at anchor, we had a severe thunderstorm, the next night we had 20-25 knot winds. I kept asking myself…why are we doing this? But, after 4 days on board, the weather moderated and I think we finally got our sea-legs. It’s Tuesday and we’re off to see about an alternator!

Four days of relocating within the harbor cleansed the beard of sea life that was calling our anchor line home. Our mechanical issues allowed the Atlantic a few days to calm down and we had cool, gentle NE wind at about 15 knots, with the uniform of the day being sweatshirts and shorts. We departed the cut and within minutes, the water changed from turquoise to a deep purple and the depth sounder no longer registered. Just a few weeks ago, a boat about the size of ours hit a container that was jettisoned from a freighter and the boat sunk within 20 minutes.  Apparently, several of these were said to be lost and remain lurking just below the surface. Fortunately, this is a well traveled path and they were rescued in 30 minutes. That incident was the source of a little of our apprehension. We had a 50 mile sail to a magical cut that took us from 2000 feet of water to 20 feet of emerald green seas. What a return we had to cruising, as the day was perfect in every way. We are now anchored in Black Point, Exuma and have to wait for weather once again. 

What a wonderful life!

Preparing OPA for the trip North

I remember when we purchased OPA 20 years ago. It was during the zero-tolerance drug policy and the boat was owned by an elderly couple. They were boarded by the U.S. Coast Guard as a suspected drug vessel. They took them to a hotel and when they returned in the morning they found the boat completely destroyed. It was then purchased by two young men and gutted, but they quickly lost interest in the project. When we got her, she was pretty much a hull with a 48 hp Westerbeke diesel, which Danny promptly replaced with an 85 hp perkins. Danny made the trip from Miami with two of his buddies. It was a trip that none of them will ever forget. We had a goal of five years to restore her and depart. It was almost five years to the day that we started our first cruising trip. We cruised for 5 years and then returned to the states and work. We lived on board for several more years and then moved ashore. OPA had pretty much been neglected as we resumed our former lives. After our house burned down, we decided it was time to start cruising again. We left in February, 2009, and by September, we had to fly back to the states because Danny started passing blood. And the poor old  boat sat again.

When we returned Danny had to address every single system on the boat, starting starting with an overheating problem. He ended up replacing every single part in the cooling system. Next came the electrical system. We had to replace all 3 8D batteries upon our return. A lot of the wiring had corroded and had to be replaced, which took me back to my Fortune Bank days of running cable (thanks Greg, those skills did come in handy), but,  fortunately when Danny originally ran the wiring, he used plastic conduit complete with pull strings. We replaced  the 12 Volt lights in the main salon. We had to rerun the cable for the depth sounder and install a new transducer, and that is one piece of electronics that you can’t be without here, because Bahamas, translated, means shallow water. It has been said that if you haven't put  your boat on the ground, you don’t use your boat.

We had to deal with a lot of mold, because a few small leaks soon turned the inside of the boat into an incubator for microorganisms. We pulled every cushion, towel, sheet and article of clothing, brought  it ashore, drove it to the laundromat and back, and then returned by dingy it back to OPA. Every glass, container, pan and dish had to be washed again and again. 

Our refrigeration system has failed, so we will have to use an old fashioned icebox until we can sort it out in the states. It’s been a long time since I have done any cooking on board, so I will have to readjust to my tiny galley.  I have a coffee pot, microwave, toaster oven, propane stove, and bbg grill at my disposal. I am excited about the challenge of once again providing tasty meals aboard our traveling home. Although I felt bad for all those who lost their jobs, we were fortunate enough to be able to stock the boat for our return trip at 75% off when Emerald Isles (grocery store nears Sandals resort) closed their doors. That was a bonus for us and I’m so glad we were here for that windfall. We are on a fixed income and the food here is outrageously expensive. Food costs are 2 1/2 to 3 times more expensive here and I depleted my boat inventory some time ago. 

Once all the systems had been repaired and tested, we started working on the exterior. We painted the deck and applied 2 coats of Seatol to all the bright work. Then we moved below and painted every surface that could be painted or varnished. We used approximately 10 cans of acetone or mineral spirits (at $12.00 a quart) and about 30 disposable brushes and came home each day covered with dust, paint and varnish. It was well worth the effort and then we had the unenviable task of removing all that dust from every nook and cranny on the boat.

When we went for fuel, we discovered that Exuma Yacht Club is  not open for dock fuel sales on Sundays.  In 1996, when we first started cruising, it cost us $189.00 for 100 gallons, today it is $590.00. Danny calls it expensive camping.  After we fueled on Monday morning, we moved OPA back behind the house. It was to our delight that we were greeted by the dolphin Nicky and one of her pups as we came back in to Hooper's Bay. This was a blessing and a very good sign for me.  We are staged just off Conch Cay cut so that we will be ready for an early departure Thursday morning.  

Gazing at this turquoise harbor, I suddenly feel a bit  of sadness. Our boat sways gently on her anchor, as a 21 foot Sea Pearl, built in Tarpon Springs, Florida, sails by. The sun sets as the children next door (visitors from PA and MD) are out in kayaks on a harbor that is a sheet of glass. Hooper's Bay is a wonderful community with some delightful neighbors and located only 3 miles from Georgetown. We are walking distance from Smitty's grocery store, CNK liqour store, Darville's hardware store and Garden Creations (find them on Facebook), where we get the freshest produce on the island at the most reasonable prices. Our neighbors across the street at Hoopersbayvillas.com are also our neighbors in the states. They live about 20 minutes from us in Clermont, Florida. Talk about a small world!

I will definitely leave this house with a lot of wonderful memories. Thanks again to our friend, Lorraine, for giving us this most incredible opportunity. Thanks to all of you who came and shared our bit of paradise and many more thanks for all the treats that came with you. It was remarkable. I will have these moments for life. 

Georgetown, Exuma, Bahamas-Our second home

Just borrowed a friends camera to take a few shots of Georgetown before we depart. Even though I know we will be back, it is going to be very difficult to leave here. It is such a beautiful island and I am so blessed to have had this opportunity. Hope you enjoy these photos that we took today. We took the loop around Lake Victoria right in the heart of Georgetown, Exuma, Bahamas. 

OPA is anchored in this harbor which is referred to as Kidd Cove. Those of you who are familiar with the boat just may be able to locate her.  Good Luck...I have a hard time spotting her and I know where she is!

Regatta Point

Government Dock - Kidd Cove

Entering Lake Victoria from the harbor.

These photos were taken from Exuma Yacht Club's upper deck, recently acquired by Eddie Irvine, famous Indy race car drive (pictured above, pumping fuel). He has been steadily making improvements and the fuel dock (both auto and marine) are once again open for business. He has recently added a volley-ball court and  Friday nights rock at the bar/restaurant where he has awesome drink specials and the music of a featured artist (ABBA was my personal favorite!).  Thanks Eddie for bringing a whole new look and feel to Sam Gray's Marina. Good Luck and much success! You haven't seen the last of Picasso.

Eddie's Edgewater - During the second World War, this was the only establishment serving liquor to the boys from the Navy base. It is still family owned and operated. Miss our departed friends, Eddie Minnis, Victor (Rap) Brown, Andrea Brown and Kevin Brown, may they rest in peace. This is the home of  Rake and Scrape and the best conch burger in all of the Bahamas (you can write that down).

This is the ferry that carried us from Nassau to Georgetown on April 22nd of 2011. One way from Nassau overnight $75.00.

The Anglican church in the background and our reconditioned dinghy after repairing the damage from Hurricane Irene in the foreground.

Two Turtles Inn - approaching from Lake Victoria

The straw market--part of the local shopping district.

The local library staffed by volunteers and open Monday -- Saturday from 10:00am until 1:00pm. 

Hair braiding and fresh produce are also available at the straw market!

Danny and I have been coming to Georgetown since 1995 when we made our first trip to the Bahamas aboard OPA (our 41' Morgan Out Island). The people of this island have been calling us back ever since then. We have cruised here 8 of the last 17 years and returned by air for 6 more of those. We have had the honor of knowing four generations of family's from the island, but with that honor comes the pain of loosing them. Georgetown and her people will always be close to our hearts and we will continue to answer her call. We plan to return here for the summer. We like it better here in the summer when we have the full attention of all the local establishments!! We survived a direct hit from Hurricane Irene and feel that this is the safest place we can be if we have to feel the wrath of another Category 3 hurricane.

Penquin and Vulture, Hooper's Bay, Georgetown, Exuma

Seashell with Thunder aka Rocky or Potcake...because he only knows us when he needs us!

It is hard to believe we have been in this house for a year and the next phase of our journey is upon us. Last February, we had an offer from our friend in England to stay at her house, located 3 miles from Georgetown, while Danny was convalescing from surgery, radiation and chemotherapy for colo-rectal cancer. Having had to leave the boat here for quite sometime, we had a lot of repairs and TLC before she would be ready to sail. The offer was a blessing, and although the work that was required to keep up a five-bedroom, three bath house was at first undaunting, it  quickly became the very healing and spiritual environment that we both needed. It has been a lot of hard work, but the rewards have been many. 

Approaching Penquin & Vulture from the Queen's Hwy

Approaching from Hooper's Bay

View from our balcony

From the back patio we watch boats enter and depart the notorious Conch Cay Cut. We watched fourteen boats depart the harbor this morning and another 5 come in this evening.

Hooper's Bay -- The best beach on Exuma!

The beach at Hooper's Bay that has been our gymnasium.What a year we had here!

Our first visitor was only here for a few days, but she arrived from Atlanta only two short days after our arrival and just in time for the Georgetown Family Island Regatta 2011.

Class B racing sloop built by Captain Leslie (Buzzy) Rolle

We spent the next six weeks preparing the house for the arrival of our seven cousins from Pennsylvania for ten days in June. We had the most outrageous time here swimming, sunning, sailing and slamming back a lot of Kalik's, the official beer of the Bahamas, and the drink to choose when you choose not to drink... as proclaimed on Danny's favorite t-shirt from the Same Ole Place in Barratarre (as modeled below).

Seashell and Danny

We were able to cross the harbor and climb the monument on Stocking Island, spend a lovely day at Chat n Chill swimming with the stingrays and swimming in Hooper's Bay with some dolphin's who at first were unfortunately mistaken  for sharks.

One of these dolphins has been in these waters for the 16 years we have been coming here. She is called Nicki because of the nicks on her fins. She now travels with her mate and two pups.

 The highlight of their stay was definitely when 13-year-old Tyler landed a 42 inch barracuda weighing approximately 30 pounds. He is still the reigning champ aboard OPA, but I'm positioning myself to take over that title somewhere on our journey to the U.S.A.

AWESOME CATCH, TY with your proud PAPA!

The climb to the monument. This was once a marker for the U.S. Naval base.

Our next guests arrived from Tampa for a week in July and at that time, both the sailboat engine and dingy motor were out of commission. Fortunately, we had a car and were able to take them to some very beautiful beaches on the island of Exuma. (still waiting on these photos, Jon)

We were here for hurricane Irene in late August which was one of the most exciting things we have been through thus far. OPA, our 41 ft. Morgan Out Island and our home once again,  faired extremely well, although she did have her two anchors ripped out when the eye passed over and switched directions. The wind generator was ripped from the location where it was welded to the mast in the 130 mph winds that we experienced. We were fortunate, as she ended up only a few feet away from the huge window panes of Kevalli house, a beautiful home within the hurricane hole on Stocking Island. The owner called and jokingly informed us that we were double parked. With the exception of some roof damage to the house and mountains of debris to be disposed of, Penquin and Vulture remained pretty much unscathed. The dinghy was pretty brutalized and ended up a few houses down the beach. We did some serious manuevering to get the dinghy far enough up the beach until our return from the states when Danny would rebuild it.

Videos from Hurricane Irene August 24, 2011

This was about 6 hours before the eye passed and nowhere near the 130 we ultimately experienced after that brief period of silence and then the wrath. We were without power for 5 days which was probably the worst thing we had to endure. 

Only half of it's fury...

 We spent the next two months in Tampa, Florida, with our dear friend Debbie, two foreign exchange students, one horse, 3 cats, 2 birds, up to 4 dogs, a short visit with her Aunt and our last days at the ranch with her very sweet mom. We celebrated my birthday and Thanksgiving among friends and family and my baby sister got married. Congrats, Billie Jo and Rob.

We all lived in splendid harmony.

Play from Thailand and Karol from Czech Republic

We returned to Georgetown with Danny's brother Chris.

Having a cold one with the boys.

 We had three wonderful weeks with him and during his stay,  the brother's bonded while rebuilding the dinghy. We were able to find a really sensational deal on a used 8 hp motor which continues to start first time, everytime...a true blessing, as it will virtually become our car.

Our favorite little visitor!

We got the exciting news in February that Lorraine, the owner of the house, would be visiting us for two weeks. She came with her daughter and 2 year old grand-daughter. It was quite the social event as a lot of our friends have remained the same over the last 16 years and we had plenty of themed-dinner parties in a variety of wonderful settings.

Trinnity Brown and Lily 

Seashell, Lorraine and Danny at our favorite spot..."Tino's at the Fish Fry"

New Friends

They have since departed and we are now focusing on giving OPA the TLC that she most certainly deserves. It will definitely be with sadness that we leave this beautiful home that has been the source of many happy memories since we first met Bert and Lorraine back in 1995. It's been a wonderful year, but in the words of Captain Ron...it's time to kick some tires and  light some fires!!!!